The night had been wonderful. I woke as the first person on the camp
site again, not difficult due to there only being three of us. The
whole night over I had left the flaps of the tent open. Basically the
tent was only a deterrent against night crawlers. If they weren't
about I could have just slept on the ground with the blow up
mattress. After a breakfast consisting of porridge and (the newly
auquiered) tea I packed up all the gear and said good bye to the
other travellers who had gotten up in that time. It turned out they
were heading along the Oodnadatta track, too. Only they planned to go
the whole length until Marla, whereas I was turning of in Williams
Creek. Set of and had my last glimpse of tarmac road a few kilometres
prior to reaching Marree. After that all is gravel or worse. Fuelled
up completely again in Marree, prices now having reached 1,90$. The
car had only used up ten litres of fuel since Leigh Creek, so I
didn't have to pay horrendous. Asked if the track was passable again,
just to be sure and the lady at the till said “no problem”. She
just warned me about a hole “somewhere after the planes”. Her
husband had apparently been doing a check run and his Ute had become
airborne. Considering I am in a Subaru Forester I was going to be
extra careful.
And then I set of along
the Oodnadatta track, with warning signs all over the entrance making
sure we had all the necessity (okay, I didn't have a second jack). I
was felling rather reassured, knowing that there was a Ute following
me a few dozen of kilometres behind (the couple from the camp site in
Farina). All along the way I was mostly alone. Occasionally a bus,
truck or four wheel drive would pass, but otherwise it was only me,
fast open desolate terrain and tons of flies. Seriously?! Where do
those bloody things keep hiding and what the heck do they feed off.
Passed by near endless terrain of desert, but still surprisingly with
some flora nearly on every patch. Sometimes if there was sand on the
road I, and anybody else I met, would kick up a rather good sand
cloud behind us. The shrubs on the side of the road were caked in
yellow dust. The few times I did get out of the car I was greeted
with a wall of heat and a few second later the armada of flies that
waits everywhere. Spotted the occasional lizard dash across the road,
but hopefully didn't squash any. Over my head a giant grey cloud was
settling. That can be good and bad news. Good: I have some protection
against the sun in the driest state of the driest continent on the
world. Bad: If that thing rains and turns the ground to sludge I am
stuck a hundred kilometres from the nearest civilisation. Luckily it
was travelling the opposite direction to me and didn't release it's
hold on to my head.
After a few crunches on
the bottom of my car, due to ground clearance not being quite enough
the road bettered up for some time. Passed and had a look at some old
planes stood up next to each other and various other sculptures set
up in the desert. And after that the warned hole. Also a sign had
been put up, so I didn't have any issue with passing through. You
could still see how a vehicle travelling to fast would take off.
Somewhere around there the couple from the camp site overtook me, so
I now had no “safety” backup from behind. Meh, carried on as
always and the sky had turned blue again. Ergo, a lot of heat, so AC
was switched on to full (and was just enough to keep me cool). Passed
the crossing that turned of to Roxby Downs and shortly after got my
first glimpse of Lake Eyre. Only the small part of Lake Eyre, the
southern section. Still, after I got a few pictures I was just about
to set off again when this large lizard is just sitting in the road.
Camera out, picture, window down, picture, zoom in, picture, get out,
picture, walk closer, picture, walk even close, gone. Thing would be
about 30-40cm long, smaller version of the Galapagos Komodo Dragon.
Carried on and passed a
concrete bridge crossing a creek with a water hole in it, a rarity
around here. Around there also a large bird (1,2m guess) that looked
like a heron but had webbed feet. Further on there was a turn off
with a four kilometre drive to “The Bubbler”, a spring using the
GAB to supply water in this harsh terrain. As I probably won't be
along here ever again I took that extra length and nearly got shaken
to bits. I found out along the Oodnadatta track that if you travel at
the right speed you just fly over corrugation. Loose traction too,
but that isn't much of a problem on a straight road with no one
coming the other way.
Due to curves leading to the Bubbler I had to
go slower (there was a speed limit sign of 40km/h too, but who is
going to check out here) and it was just that amount where it is
painful to go to fast (and bad for the car, too). So I crawled there
at a snails pace, but was rewarded with seeing life in the otherwise
desolate salt dessert. After enjoying the silence and spotting a few
twisters make their way across the desert I was off again. The road
had deteriorated compared to before and I hoped that my car would get
me to Williams Creek before braking a diff or something. Along there
the terrain started turning to red, with a few red small sand dunes
lining the shores of red salt lakes. As always, there is still
vegetation clinging to the spots here somewhere. Surprisingly a lot
where green, too. Carried along and twisted around hills and drove
through flood ways which where (luckily) empty. After five hours of
driving I reached Williams Creek where I stopped for the night and
went in to the bar to get a cool drink. Nothing against water, but
warm water in 30-40°C isn't that refreshing. Met a girl from Ireland
behind the bar, who was working her days out here in the middle of no
where. Wondered how you get out here to find a job without your own
vehicle, but she mentioned she had some connections.
Just talking to the
locals I found out there is a flight from here around the scenery,
Lake Eyre and the largest station in the world, Anna Creek Station.
As said before, probably never going to be here again (did ask if
there where any job possibility for coming back later, but sadly no)
and decided to go along in the morning. After that to the camp site
(with showers) and to write the blog.
Track at GPSies.
Track at GPSies.