Kings Canyon

Woke up in the morning felling better after yesterdays episode, but still not in top fit condition. After finally getting up with sore muscles from the cramps from yesterday I passed on breakfast whilst mum had a few cereals. Mum got most of the stuff packed up and we left for the car and packed it up. As we had come all this way to see Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Kata Tjuja (The Olgas) we went to a look out that wasn't quite in the National Park, so we didn't have to pay the fee to enter. At the lookout we each got a fair amount of pictures of the two rock mountain formations before proceeding to the petrol station. We had agreed on continuing on to Kings Canyon as we didn't want to spend another night in this freakishly expensive tourist centre. The fuel costing 2,03$ per litre was the last draw. I can understand it will be more expensive than Alice Springs or similar, but not over two dollars.

So we drove on to Kings Canyon, most of the day spent with mum driving the car. We passed a patch of freshly burned ground created by a bush fire the day before when we had passed. Nearly all the way back to Mt. Ebenezer before turning North up another type of highway. After a while this one started getting a bit hillier and rockier, as we were drawing closer to the Mc. Donnell Ranges.

Warnings for camels, kangaroos and livestock started appearing but the first wild animals we saw were some wild horses. Loads of them were seen on our journey further north. We reached Kings Creek Station and had a look at fuel prices and something to cool to drink. Got a drink but passed on the fuel as it had risen to 2,30$, which up till now is the highest I have seen in Oz. We had a look at Kings Canyon, but it was getting to late to actually walk anywhere, plus I wasn't felling up to scratch yet either. So we carried on to Kings Canyon Resort where we got a bed for the night. Wanted to have a look at the sunset on the mountain range, but due to the sky being full of clouds that didn't work. There were a lot of other tourists around, but not as many as to call it “silly season”. Mum cooked up some dinner after that and we had some rice and backed beans before heading off to bed. Just after we had booked in to the room a gecko scrambled across the wall and ceiling, but they take care of the flies that get in.

Track at GPSies.  

Rip-off Rock

Got up early this morning (4.00AM) to go and have a balloon flight over the McDonnell Ranges. We got picked up at the front of our hostel, and drove to pick up some more people after which we proceeded to a field close to the airport. Our balloon hadn't been blown up yet, as the pilot and crew were not to sure about the wind. It was a bit strong so they sent up a dummy and waited for another ten minutes to see if it would die down and we could carry on as planned. As the wind didn't die down, the flight was cancelled and we found ourselves back at the hostel earlier than planned.

Mum and me then proceeded to pack up for our journey to the Uluru/Kata Tjuja National Park, filled up the car with fuel and bought a few supplies for the journey. Then we set of for the hour long drive to the National Park. In total it would be somewhere between 500 and 600km, in Australian terms a short distance. We switched drivers a few times on the way there. In Erldunda we turned of the Stuart highway to carry on towards Yulara on the Lasseter highway. At this point my stomach started felling a bit weird, but nothing remotely bad. In Mt. Ebenezer we had some lunch and picked up a French guy who needed a journey to Yulara airport. We wondered how he had ended up there and it turned out he had lived in Kulgera for the last five months working as a chef in the roadhouse. Never cooked before that, but he seemed to have gotten used to it. He was on his way towards Melbourne to drive along the Great Ocean Road and then carry on to Tasmania. He himself came from Straßburg, so not that far from Germany actually. At some point along there my stomach really started playing up. It most likely didn't like the greasy chicken and chips I had for lunch. After we dropped Max (yes, same name as me) off in centre Yulara, we carried on to the camp site and mum organised a stay for two night (72$, for two night on an un-powered camp site?!) whilst I visited the toilets.

 Went and built up the tent after that and I had to go on the toilet again. At that point I realised something was very wrong. My body started tingling from the hands and feet up (like when they fall asleep) and I just managed to get back to the car and tell mum to drive me to the medical centre (luckily she had noticed it when we were driving in) before my whole body cramped up. As it was Saturday the medical centre was closed and after ringing and discussing money business over the phone, mum finally got a nurse to come. In the meantime I had managed to drop out of the car and lie down on the floor. Muscles everywhere were cramping up even worse, couldn't move my hands anymore and to top everything off my shoulder managed to drop out as well. At that point I didn't care anymore and just started screaming out (never had that pain before). In the end the nurse came, but I was starting to feel better before then (probably due to me throwing up). It turned out I had most likely contracted some type of virus which had sucked my stomach dry, thus resulting in near worst case dehydration. The nurse did a lot of check ups, told me what was wrong and put me on a drip for about an hour. She had just been in the process of packing for a holiday and said that dehydration was something they normally encountered around here, especially during summer. Due to me having the virus she recommended having a separate room for the night in an air conditioned climate. As it was for medical reasons we got a discount, but still had to pay 205$, for one night. I just went to bed, had as much to drink as I could and tried to get to sleep.

Track of the journey at GPSies.  

Royal Flying Doctors Service & Reptiles

Had the nicest sleep that I have had in a long time. First time I have found a cover that is long enough for me. Got up to have some breakfast and then headed of to the tourist info to get some information in on what to do in Alice for the day. The following days will probably be spent around the area and not in Alice Springs itself. They had a few things, but after some questioning mum booked a balloon flight for us in the morning the next day above the McDonnell Ranges to see the sun rise.

After that I took a short time of as I had got a phone call from the company I visited the day before that mentioned they might have something. I'll be on a trial first of all, as I don't have a clue if I can handle work in the heat of the Outback or maybe even the desert. Talk went well, so I'll see if I can handle the work.

After that we had some lunch in a Subway. It was pretty packed and on the way I met the guy I had seen in Port Augusta, Australia is a small country. After dinner we went of to see the Royal Flying Doctors Service Museum, as mum has had a profound interest in them for a while. We watched a hologram about how they came about and had a stroll through the museum afterwards. Then we had a look at a Reptile House at all the snakes we want to avoid in the Outback (including Nr. 1: Inland Taipan aka Fierce Snake). Pretty lively in there, they where moving around a lot. Held a python, but he didn't seem to mind.

Then some shopping for healthy veggies and co. and back to the hotel for a dinner. I wanted to see the sunset on Anzac Hill, but my internal clock was still set to Adelaide time and we got up to late. Had a look at Alice at night and then went back to write this blog and get some sleep for early in the morning.  

YHA & Mum arriving

Yesterday was pretty much spent just with working. Sorting through the tons of pictures I have made since leaving Reds and getting some of the timelapses rendered. I got a heap of movies of another guy out of the dorm, so I spent the evening relaxing whilst watching a movie. Then trying to sleep, but I had a guy under me who snored, spoke, farted and coughed nearly all night long, so it was difficult.

In the morning up to get packed and ready to leave the Youth Hostel. Mums coming to Alice Spring today, so I got ready to pick her up, Getting some breakfast I watched a few Aboriginals break out in a fight and a policeman had to intervene. After that I had some time to spare, so I went of to the company that Barton mentioned to see if they had any jobs. Talked to the overseer, and he with regret told me they have none at the moment themselves, but others are looking everywhere. Apparently Alice has got lots of work but not enough people to work. They wrote down a few names and actually a short while later I got a call from another company asking if I wanted to have a try with them. Unfortunately they start the next day and I am spending the week with mum, so I had to say no to that. Then off to the airport to pick up mum. I waited a while for her plane to come and after months of not seeing her she walked out on the other side of the planet. Had a chat whilst driving back and found the hotel we are staying in after a ride around Alice. Went out to dinner and had a massive burger whilst I caught up on the news in Nesselwang and told mum how things are in Oz. Shopped some things before going back to hotel and get some washing done. In the end the washing machine didn't work, but I somehow managed to get a job offer from a guy that works as a removalist. See how that ends, thought.  

Coober Pedy - Alice Springs: Screw the desert, let it rain

So a long drive today, all the way from Coober Pedy to Alice Springs was the plan. Nearly 700km of driving and it would take a while as I sit at 80km/h to save fuel. I left Coober after getting some money out of the bank and refilling my car and both jerry cans. Julius and Andi had left earlier to use the cooler part of the day before the potential 40°C hit. After a breakfast of porridge I was off on the long road north. Passed a lot of holes dug in the ground by miners, looking for the elusive opals. After just a few kilometres I met up with Julius and Andi again, who were just in the process of building up their kite. They have got three kites with them. A small four meter one, a medium seven metre one and a large 12 metre one for when there is near to no wind. As I had come along they wanted to get some video material with them and the kite for their sponsor (kites cost something around 2000$). Spent a while playing photographer as they tried to keep the kite under control in a gust heavy crosswind. Some road trains passed us (three trailers, over 50 metres long, some have told stories of trains up to five trailers long) and splattered us in stones and gravel they had picked up with their high number of tires. After getting as much footage as possible they packed up the kite and where looking forward (not) to a day of strong head-/crosswind. I said my goodbyes and will try to met up with them somewhere on the way/way back from Uluru (Ayers Rock) to get some more footage.

Next stop after that was Marla, the town where the Oodnadatta Track officially ends and I bought myself a cold drink for the journey. The woman behind the counter was lamenting that they were running out of water. It had rained all around Marla (Coober Pedy, Kulgera,...) but just not there and if it doesn't rain soon their tanks will be empty and they'll have to import the water. In that time I also got a message from Danielle, one of the English girls I met in Coober and was planning to met in Alice for the remaining days until mum comes. They had spent the night in Yulara and got hit by storms and small bush fires ignited bye the lightning bolts. They had just left and hadn't booked anything in Alice yet. Driving across the border to the Northern Territorys I was hit by the mother of all storms. Any blacker and that thing would have had a tornado come out of it. My car was dirty from the Oodnadatta Track (covered in yellowish mud/dust), after that storm and a few smaller ones afterwards I don't need a wash anymore. I was worried about driving along with only 50 metres of view and finding a road train turned over, the wind was that strong (it blasted rain water down my exhaust pipe). Luckily they seem to know what their trucks can handle and I didn't find any

 catastrophic condition. It actually surprised me how much was chucked down, I'll have to check the road conditions for the McDonnell ranges outside of Alice, if I plan to drive there. Coming out of that I passed in to Erlunda, the town where the turn of is from the Stuart highway to Uluru. Then it was driving through the red sand section with rock formations here and there. Another rain storm hit, you realise they are coming because the sand being sucked towards the storm suddenly changes direction an goes all erratic. I did get a few pictures I hope showed it well, how the sand is dragged high along the desert and then sucked up. This rain storm saw bushes and at one point a small tree being blown over the road. Passed a road train standing on the side of the road after the worst had passed and the driver was checking something. Signalled him if he was ok, but he waved it of so I carried on. About 120km before Alice my low fuel warning came on, so I filled the jerry cans in and carried on. Ended up coming all the way to Alice with only about 65litres, something most four wheel drives won't manage. Danielle sent another message that they where in the YHA in Alice as everything else seemed to be full. Getting there there were some weird cars driving along the road. One van especially came wobbling down the road and when it passed me black smoke was coming out of the back. Driven by two Aboriginals, but hey, it still does the job of driving.

Once in Alice I went to the Youth Hostel and booked a dorm room for a few night. Woke up a guy who was working night shift and was in bed, so he wasn't happy. Got talking to another two German guys coming down from the top and are on their way down to Melbourne. It seems completely normal to met Germans everywhere. Till now I am the youngest I have found, I guess most my age will just go along the east coast and party nearly all the time.

We all went out in the evening to a pup and had a few drinks. We all ended up going to McDonalds in a taxi. I hadn't eaten anything since the morning and noticed after just a few beers. After that episode back to the hostel and some sleep. Tomorrow will likely be a day of rest, as mum is coming the following day.

Track at GPSies.

Coober Pedy

Coober Pedy is strange. First of, sleeping underground here has it's mayor pros. You save a lot of energy on air conditioning, then again have to make up for that with ventilation. You have no clue what time it is down there, due to not seeing the sun or any other object for reference. Due to that I woke up at 9.30 o'clock, well rested and not sweating in the heat up on the surface. After some breakfast I got all my photos of the Oodnadatta Track sorted, updated the blog and rendered one time lapse I had made on the way. Finishing that I had a chat with a local doing some electrics in the caves and due to there being tons of opals all over the place he confirmed that we might be standing right next to half a million dollars or something along that line. Could be just rocks, too. He had been digging for a few years, but not amassed a huge fortune.

Then I went around exploring the town. Lots of aboriginal people walking around the place, but I was told that that is more normal here in the Outback than on the coast. I ended up in the Old Timers Mine, a museum of how opal mining used to be. I had a very interesting chat with the owner and we had a very in depth talk of how opals are made, where they find them, how they were mined, etc. She told of some people who have mined out here for twenty years and never found a thing and then you have someone who just wanted to add on a pantry to their house and found loads of the stuff. Apparently one guy ended up digging 21 extra rooms because he was so lucky to find a hotspot of opals and found a vein of them in every room. The most expensive opal they had in the shop of the museum was priced at 28.000$. 

After that I went to a scenic outlook over the town and then back to the backpackers hostel to do some computer work and lunch. Back there I met two guys from Germany (they seem to be everywhere here) who are biking from Port Augusta to Darwin on a tandem lay-down bike. If the wind so permits they also have a kite to pull them. They are documenting their journey carefully and want to maybe get in to the EFT (European Film Tour) with their film they are going to make. If I met them on the way again, I might do a short film for them, so both are in the scene biking and not always just one. Till now they have had problems with the kite thought, as the wind has always been coming the wrong way (Headwind for bikers. Nasty thing, that). Shortly after a massive storm pulled over Coober in the evening, even the owner was out with his phone taking pictures and commenting on how rare rain is out here. He talked about how the miners will not be happy about it, as it will possibly flood some mines, but we have not to worry, he fixed up all the holes in the dorms years ago (I would hope). After witnessing the storm and saying a “see you later” to Julius and Andi I went of to bed to catch some sleep for the drive the next day.

Julius and Andi have got a website at “www.outbackcrosskiter.de”.

William Creek - Coober Pedy

Woke up early in the morning this time. Purposefully, as I had found out the day before that they offer flights over Lake Eyre and the Painted Hills. As I most likely will probably never come here again (to far out) I thought that I should just do it. Bit of drama to begin with, as I don't have the capital to pay for the flight in my Australian bank account but I have a German savings account where I could pull the needed money from. Due to bank reason (and it being Saturday) they didn't transfer the money (haven't yet either) but I managed to get bye with what was left in my wallet, what I had left in my Australian account and using a MasterCard of my other bank.

Off in to the air we went after that and the scenery is just spectacular from the air. Taking off our pilot (a guy who his working up his hours to be a pilot for the Flying Doctors Service) took us past Anna Creek Homestead, the largest cattle station in the world. Being in the air it's territory basically went from one end of the horizon to the other and apparently it takes a week on horseback to cross it. With me was a couple from Queensland, who were touring through Australia. After the homestead we angled toward the Painted Hills and had a look at their wonderful colours and the occasional stock at water holes here and there. Then towards Lake Eyre, where a many a documentary has been made. Apparently the company who owned the plane did a few flight for film crews and similar. The lake was as expected, a massive expanse of dry salt, where nothing lives at the moment. Flying toward the lake we did see a few pelicans take of from a creek bed. We flew over the lake for what felt like hours and visited a few islands out in the middle of no where. Coming back after spending a while out there we found some water in the middle of the lake, due to a storm the night before. Predictions are it is going to be gone shortly, due to the high temperature that was expected. 

After landing back in Williams Creek and saying goodbye to everyone I headed of along the William Creek Track to Cooper Pedy. This one wasn't as straight or long driving as the Oodnadatta Track, only about 160km until to Cooper. Met a few cars driving the opposite way, but surprisingly none of the massive road trains everybody was warning about. The huge ones (with five trailers) have eluded me so far. The scenery turned from the red sand dunes of Williams Creek back in to flat country once I got closer to Cooper Pedy. Weirdly, a rain shower came through the desert and I actually had to turn the windscreen wipers on. Luckily it wasn't to much, so I wouldn't get bogged in my car. Getting towards Cooper Pedy the landscape got weird. Holes and hills everywhere, some with mining equipment in it. Driving around I eventually found the town that wasn't 100% underground and booked in at the local backpacker hostel (cheapest place to stay). I got a dorm room underground in a section called the dungeons and it is wonderful. Due to it being 6,5m underground, it is nice and cool nearly all the time, perfect against temperatures in this part of the world. Went up to the bar after some dinner and used the free Wi-Fi. Met three English girls, a Dutch guy and a bloke from the US. Got talking to them and it ended up with us all driving out to the Breakaways (a geological formation about 30km out of Cooper Pedy). Got some really good looking pictures and had a fun time with people closer to my age. Had to stop shortly to refuel out of my jerry can, as the last time I had filled up was ages ago in Marree and I didn't want to end up with no fuel in the tank whilst they drove away in their Patrol. Had a brilliant time and went in to a bar for the night before heading back to bed and saying goodbye to the other five. They are heading off to Alice Springs in the morning, but as I will probably appear one day early to mum coming, I'll probably spend the day with them.

Track at GPSies.