Sailing Croatia Day 6: Hvar Harbour - Korcula Island

The morning saw Dad get up, give Rhiannon one warning to bring her stuff to wash, being ignored, Rhiannon realising he was gone and getting up in a rush and calling him.

I myself was a bit more relaxed about getting up and later on in the morning I passed up on my usual porridge food and had a bread breakfast with the rest. After breakfast Caro and Dad went shopping whilst Stefano and me got the boat ready. Just as the two shoppers came back I started up the engine and the boat left a few minutes later with Rhiannon at the helm. Going out the harbour our place was taken up immediately.

Outside we were later followed by a couple more sailing boats and whilst Dad and Stefano were discussing the predicted wind conditions I yelled down that we had seven knots of wind. Sails went up immediately. For the rest of the morning we were accompanied by a drizzle of rain and aft wind. New experience for 3/5 of the boat crew who had been sailing against the wind for most of the time. I commented to Dad how “boring” downwind sailing can be after having to go against the wind for four days. Short time later the music was turned up and Rhiannon was the DJ.

Later on once a few musics went through the mood calmed down a bit as the rain was still holding up. Everybody got rather sleepy and relaxed. On the horizon a lot of the boats from Hvar were in a regatta but we only met one which seemed to have come of course a bit closer to our track.

We took the sails in in the end, as the wind had come down to about four knots. The first spot we had aimed to get to was reached at about three o'clock, with nine knots of wind. I was felling a bit tired and hungry and was looking forward to anchoring. As the wind had picked up Dad suggested to carry on to the next anchorage, so I made myself some food and then went to have a nap.

When I woke up again we were just of the anchorage point, so whilst Stefano was anchoring I set my anchor monitoring app. 

The bay we sought shelter in from the predicted 20 knot winds at night is a really nice area. Clear water down to twelve metres with sandy and grassy ground. After anchoring Caro started cooking and Stefano was tiding up his fishing road (which had twists in it from a malfunction). And low and behold, whilst dragging the rope back through the water he caught a Sepia (type of squid). Meal for the night was guaranteed. After that a nice meal consisting of pasta, pork and Sepia.

Then bed.

Track at GPSies.

Time: 9 hours

Weather: Drizzly rain, later on sunny with wind.  

Sailing Croatia Day 5: Vis Island - Hvar Harbour

The night was rather restless. My anchor alarm app went of four times, but not due to the anchor dragging, but because of my phone losing it's GPS signal. In the morning we started motoring out of the harbour and set for the open sea again. No long journey planned today, as we wanted a bit of a relaxing holiday. Whilst on our way we had some breakfast and later on saw a dolphin poke it's head out of the water closer to the boat than any before. The water was speckled with rubbish here and there, so they don't seem to take recycling to big here. 

We reached our destination island after a short while (breakfast had been finished) and dad navigated through until we reached the other side. Out side of Hvar an ocean cruiser could already be seen (Pacific Princess – Hamilton), so we headed straight for that, correctly assuming that was our destination harbour. We had two options, a marina on the opposite side of Hvar on a different island or in Hvar harbour. When we read that Hvar also has electricity and water, we went straight there.

Along the way we did some testing with the boat going backwards and Rhiannon and Caro had some fun doing twists and turns whilst Dad was on the toilet. Not shortly after we reached Hvar, got the fenders and lines ready and Rhiannon and Dad got us in to the mooring. After that sitting on the deck, updating the blog and uploading tracks to GPSies. Whilst I was working on that, the others decided to run of and have a drink. Later on I joined in (after taking ages to find out how to lock the boat) and after a drink everyone except dad went up to the Fortress above the city. Up there Rhiannon and me did a time lapse and after a short visit around the embattlement’s we returned to the boat. Whilst Caro took a shower Dad and me had a chat with people from the “DoE” who were sailing around the area.

Once Caro was ready we all set of to look for a restaurant. The first one we found we went in, but after looking at the menu dad came up with the excuse that we have no cash on us (they only took cash) as it was so expensive. We then had a very good meal in a restaurant which seemed over it's head with how many people were there.

Back to the boat and then some sleep whilst Rhiannon and Caro were trying to rap and breaking down in laughter after that.

Track at GPSies.

Time 4 hours 15 min.

Weather: Cloudy with some sun later. No sails up.  

Sailing Croatia Day 4: Kremik Marina - Vis Island

A long day today, with all sorts of sailing conditions. And a small reminisced of the days sailing with Allan.

In the morning I was woken up by Dad and Stefano discussing when to leave again and after a while dad knocked on my door telling me to get ready to go. I was rather tired from the night before, as I had been working on the time lapse from the evening before that.

So we left in the morning to motor to the city we had eaten the day before and had some breakfast. Originally we had just wanted a coffee (me a tea), but in the end we decided to have a full blown breakfast instead. So later than we wanted to, we left and motored out of Primosten. A bit out we were able to put the sails up and then sailed along comfortably at around three knots. Our first fix point we passed was a lighthouse with a massive house for who knows what. From a distance it looked more like a church. Passing that we saw a lot of sea gulls in the water and we are still trying to catch some fish. No luck again, though. After the lighthouse we set sail for open water. The island we were aiming for is called Vis and it's a fair way out at sea. Due to the weather and wind predictions from Stefano, we took a more coastal course, opposed to a sea course and then swinging back around. We couldn't take a direct approach to the island, as that was where the wind was coming from. And the next few hours we spent out there. Saw a lonely dolphin again and some birds tried to take Stefanos lure, but other than that just a nice calm day. Or so we thought. Early in the afternoon we heard some thunder and the land we had just left was enveloped in rain and dark clouds. Dad heard a warning come through on the radio at one point, but nothing concerning us directly. A bit later on the wind nearly stopped altogether and the sails got rolled in and the engine came on. Didn't hold long, though, as soon after the wind picked up dramatically. Sails back out, engine off and a while after we even had to put one reef in. Caro was having a brilliant time, jumping on the waves, which had started breaking out in the sea. Soon after Rhiannon took over, for us to get in to the island, as the day was slowly drawing to a close. Big red sunset, with a ball of red in the sky. 

Then came the sort of stuff I was used to with Allan. We had an anchoring we wanted to stay at and got there just on the break of dark. There was some weird ship bunker near there, too, or it might have been for subs. First anchoring attempt saw us getting to close to shallow water with to much wind in the anchoring, as the wind had turned to an unexpected angle. Finding a good anchoring place seems to be a problem here in Croatia, as the water drops of rapidly. You can be 50 metres from the coast and in 80 metre deep water. The second anchoring point was dismissed straight away, due to the same reasons as the prior mentioned one. The third anchorage we steered to was a bit away, so by the time we got there it was dark. The only sheltered area we found was directly in front of the city of Vis and the clearest spot we found was interesting to navigate in to. Dropped the anchor and shortly after a guy in a white car rocked up yelling something at us. No clue what he was saying. We gave him many options to speak in. English, German, Italian and Chinese, Portugese and Dutch were more options. While we were debating if to stay or not (close to the land again) he managed to do some phone calls and just yelled “Go Away!” over. Dad still having a bit of humour left over just yelled an “OK” over and we lifted the anchor and left (anchor was wrapped up in the chain). Travelled a short distance and in the end dropped the anchor near to another boat (with Germans on it). A few calculations later dad had worked out what coordinated we had set the anchor at and I could put it in my phone and be at peace (bad experience in Pancake Creek). Caro had whipped up a lot of pasta, so we all got stuffed before going to bed and sleeping.

Track at GPSies.

Time: 11 hours

Weather: Sunny in the morning. Thunderclouds in the evening with winds up to 20 knots.  

Sailing Croatia Day 3: Zimnjak Island - Kremik Marina

The morning saw me getting woke up by Dad and Stefano discussing about getting ready to leave. When I heard that they wanted to leave at eight I checked the clock and saw that it was quarter too. As I didn't really want to lie in bed with and engine running next to me, I got up pronto.

By the time my head came up over deck Stefano and Dad had already untied from the buoy and were heading out to sea. Calm, no winds and flat conditions, the ocean was close to a mirror. The water here is so clear you can see to the bottom of the sea in quite a depth. Sometime later Caro and Rhiannon awoke, too, so we all sat down for breakfast. We had some of the fruit salad Caro prepared the night before and a lot of other things. After breakfast we/Dad cleaned up the boat, but all still under motor as the wind was nearly not there. For quite a while there we had the auto pilot running, as the battery was being charged by the engine anyway.

To me, the sea up until now didn't really feel like and ocean, as we are surrounded by islands until to the horizon, but later on in the morning Stefano spotted some dolphins, so we must be in the right water (it's salty, too). A lot of the islands around us have, or still are, inhabited by humans. Old stone walls separating olive plantations or collapsed houses out of stone are dotted everywhere. And then you'll also find a small town tucked away in a sheltered bay somewhere. Also there is the odd structure which no one knows what it is used for. An outside toilet looking like structure made from concrete was one. 

Past the islands we did find a stretch of sea which was open all the way to Italy. And that is where the wind really picked up. Dad had just gotten his T-shirt of to get some sun and the wind picked up. T-shirt back on again and sails up. Rhiannon, Stefano and Dad put them up whilst I tried to keep it in the wind. Shortly after Rhiannon took over the helm and we started sailing along in a straight line with over five knots. It was very well planed (or lucky) that we just arrived at the opening when the wind picked up, as we got across the open stretch fast. Once we reached the islands on the other side again, we got close to the planned marina. Dad tried reaching them on channel 16, but no answer. In the end he phoned them and got them. After closing and and taking down the sails, Dad motored us in whilst Stefano and me took care of the roped. Going backwards was and interesting thing in the yacht. No real steering until some speed is there.

After getting all moored up we had a toilet run and took a taxi in to town for some dinner and shopping.

Then back to the boat again for blogging and sleep.

Track at GPSies.

Time: 7 hours

Weather: Mostly sunny with clouds later on. Decent wind from midday until three in the afternoon.

Sailing Croatia Day 2: Biograd - Zimnjak Island

First day sailing, with a lot of wind.

In the morning we all woke up about the same time. Whilst Farinas and Rhiannon went shopping, Dad took care of the water on board and I got the car in to a better parking space. Whilst all of this was going on, Dad said that some professional Austrian team came past and completely messed up, getting a few boats endangered in the process.

Our attempt went a lot better, as no yelling or boat ramming happened. Stefano steered, whilst Dad and me got rid of the lines and Caro and Rhiannon took care that we don't bump in to our neighbours. Left the marina with a lot of speed, as the wind was blowing us out. Out at sea we got a bit of distance from the mainland and took up the sails. The first attempt saw us take all the sails out and the boat was overpowered rather a lot. After a short while of sailing like that we got the sails in a bit and the boat ran a lot better. The first “wende” (German) was a bit of a disaster, as we could not for the live of us work out why the boat wasn't turning. Dad released the pressure on main sail a little and we swung around without an issue. The next few hours saw us racing against another boat next to us, doing taking the whole was as our destination was upwind and getting to know the boat. At some stage the wind reached higher speeds, so we had the main sail reefed in as much as possible and the front sail nearly all the way in. Not any sea animal was seen, so we've all started wondering where the dolphins are. Dodged a few sand banks and rocks on our way to the next anchorage. What was chosen was a buoy near to a closed restaurant. Apparently you pay for the buoys unless you eat at the restaurant. As the restaurant is closed until May, we hooked up and didn't have to pay. Fixing to the boy was interesting, involved leaning over board, Caro trying to grip the buoy with the ship hook and when we got the line through we did something wrong and had to move it to the other side. All the while a ship a couple of tons heavy is pulling the rope out of your hand. 

After we got secured we had a drink and then whilst Rhiannon and dad got the small boat in to the water I went for a swim in my swim suit. The water was freezing, I thought the med was supposed to be nice and warm. Anyway, I was happy I had it with me. Did a few swims around the boat, dived down to the block of concrete holding us and checked the rope. All good. Did a few pictures whilst I was at it and then got back on board to dry of and write the blog. The other left for the shore at that point, one at a time. Whilst I was finishing my blog they explored the island. They met the brother of the owner of the restaurant (or something along that line) and had to pay 100 kuna for the night (about 13 Euros). For that they also got a lift back to the yacht with a motor boat. Before dinner dad then rowed me over to the mainland so I could get a time lapse of the yacht in the bay. After completing that and having a stunning few of the surrounding from the top of the hill a big pasta meal, curtsey of Caro. A few drinks after that and we were of to bed.

Track at GPSies.

Time: 4 hours 50 min.

Weather: Sunny/Light cloud cover with 25kts wind and 30kts gusts.

Sailing Croatia Day 1: Nesselwang - Biograd

Two weeks of meeting and greeting people later, Rhiannon, Dad and me are of to Croatia to sail. Stefano and Caro (Farina) are joining us for the first week and Daniel and Anna-Lena are coming the week after.

At 5.17AM Dad came and picked me up, after I had had two and a half hours of sleep. Got a few comments about taking to much, as I took my swim suit and flippers, too. Then at 5.23AM we left Zillhalde with Rhiannon to met up with Farinas at the centre of town. Shortly after we set of towards Austria with a Hogarth car and a Farina car. We had set of so early to forgo any traffic that might be on the way. It's no holidays, but the weekend just started. And then we drove and drove and drove. A few places Dad recognised from his biking times in the Alps (heard a story a few times about Heidi not giving him the chance to have a coffee) and a few I recognised from my own explorations with Nico. 

In a spot in the Dolomites we stopped for some breakfast. Haven't seen mountains like that for years, Australia’s are a bit more worn down, but Oz has it's own good things. After coffee Rhiannon had some fun on pass roads and shortly prior to the Slovenian border Dad took over again. Went through some toll roads and border controls in Slovenia and on the Croatian border. Rhiannon took over the wheel again on the old main road along the Croatian border and had some fun on it with Stefano leading.

We arrived in Biograd where we found the Marina after asking some locals and then got settled on to the boat. It's a nice boat, a Dofour 350.

Did a shopping spree shortly before dinner and then went to the Marina restaurant for some food. Dinner took absolutely ages to get there (we thought dads salad had been forgotten) but tasted pretty good.

Then back for some bailys and bed.  

Last Weeks Australia

A lot has happened since the last update in Tasmania. At the present time I am writing from Germany again. Fortunately I wasn't deported and it is a short visit.

Once mum and me finished up in Tasmania we returned the car to the dealership in Melbourne without them knowing we had ever been in Tasmania with it. After that we spent a while in Melbourne and then grabbed a train towards Hamilton. Along the way we met Katherine, quite a coincidence actually, as I had thought that we would see her the next day at Reds farm and not all be travelling at the same time. The next four days were spent at Reds, showing mum the way I had lived for most of my time in Australia. On the third day mum and Katherine set of to Sydney and on the fourth I got a call from Matthew for work. Up until just before Christmas I then spent the time working as a hay contractor again, which was a lot of fun. Thinking about all those poor backpacker working on fruit farms and here I am sitting in an air conditioned tractor.

Around Christmas and New Year I didn't do to much. Visited a few people and had a Skype chat with my siblings, mum, Grandma and Aunty Lesley. For a few weeks after that work sort of stopped, so I racked up a few hours of swimming in Hamiltons local pool. Around that time I also applied for my visa in the next country, New Zealand. Why not, whilst I'm down here? Then I thought I really should visit some people at home and booked a flight back to Germany for a few weeks visit. I told dad about it, but kept it a secret from mum so I could surprise her. Shortly after dad asked me if I wanted to go sailing with him in Croatia for two weeks whilst I'm there. I agreed and next thing you know both my siblings are going to and I'm visiting Rhiannon in China before we both depart for Europe.

Also around that time New Zealand started getting a bit in to me about not being a British Citizen (the passport I had applied with to go there). As a British person you can stay two years if you want to, but you have to have lived in England (which I found out later). Being born and raised in Germany that didn't apply to me, but fortunately I had gotten my German nationality prior to leaving for Australia. It was a bit of a hassle and took a few trips to Melbourne, but eventually I got it four weeks later after New Zealand had declined the visa application and I then applied with my new passport, which was accepted fast. 

By that time I had finished working for Matthew and returned to Reds, to spend the last few weeks there and give him a hand. Australia seemed to not want to let me go without a mark and between looking after puppies, tagging calves and fishing I also managed to pull something in my back, which left me unable to walk for two days, and twist my ankle rather badly, but I left the country without any snakebites. Although there was my closest snake encounter I had...

I managed to go to one more rodeo, too. Luckily I avoided getting on to a bull and the following days I visited a lot of people and said my good byes. The last day before leaving Red had a friend come around and we had a bit of a test on a new rifle.

On the day Red drove me to Melbourne we also sold the last of Cokes pups (Red Kelpie), so they wanted delivering to Melbourne. The pups weren't to happy about the car drive. Half way along one ore more of them threw up all across the cage (luckily Red has a Ute) and by the time we got to Ballarat the cage was clean. How that happened I'll leave out, but it didn't involve any human intervention.

On the way mum called to, so being in hast Red and me thought up some half baked story about going fishing and being out of phone service. We stayed the night at Reds cousin and left for Tullamarine airport early to get on time. At the airport I said my goodbyes to Red, got checked in, did some last minute phone calls with the hospital in Hamilton about a bug I'd had a few weeks earlier and then boarded the plane that took me from Melbourne to Sydney and then Sydney to Beijing.

Goodbye Australia, all the people I know there and I'll miss being in this awesome country.

PS: I'll be back for four hours when I fly to NZ.

PPS: The snake story I mentioned before involved me walking towards Possum (Kelpie dog), her hiding behind her kernel and a Tigersnake moving away from the half way point between the two of us (about three metres away)